Folding Silk
Folding Silk
Suits and Silk Ties the English Way
CMT is an abbreviation for, “cut, made and trimmed”, which was used often as described in a clothing industry that once flourished across England. Commonly known as the rag trade, it has suffered many low blows over the past couple of decades, but never gone down for the count. But this is specific to mass production. On the other hand the bespoke industry and CMT are the gathering storm, soon to challenge the conveyor belts on many fronts.
Savile Row has played a major role helping the industry’s survivors, like local silk weavers, CMT and tie manufacturers. The bespoke market is directly driven by demand and therefore sustainable, with little impact on our environment.
If you’re looking for value, there is always something new and exciting, but not easy to find. “Made in England” individuality and originality need not cost a fortune, so if your budget is a little tight, don’t be concerned, because there are brand names that cater to your needs, at the right price.
One prime example is Timothy Everest, a long time emerging Savile Row tailor. His designer silk ties (Spitalfield Flower) impress upon you the conservatism expected of Savile Row, but with a unique originality, affordable luxury best describes Timothy’s ties, made in England with the Savile Row stamp of approval, all this for £45.00.
But if you’re looking for a bespoke suit by the same name, then dig deep, for a few thousand pounds. Remember he dresses David Beckham.
Don’t forget where the first dark suit originated, Brummell rejected 18th century frills (dandy man). His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives today as the dark business suit, white shirt and silk tie
He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of his cravats. As he made his daily rounds from the park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes, Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often as three times a day. He preferred neck cloths that were lightly starched and carefully folded.
The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by everyone from many working men to his friend, the Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time, poorer men hoping to make their way in the world could easily imitate upper class fashion.
Moving slightly away from the conservative tone of Savile Row, and across the Thames River to Battersea, we take a look at Ian Flaherty, a man of substantial artistic talent. Already renowned world wide for his vibrant cufflink designs, he uses pure English Pewter, Swarovski Crystals and brilliant enamels.
His designer silk ties strike a similar chord; they reflect Ian’s artistry through colour arrangement and symmetry. Slightly more expensive than Timothy Everest at £59.00, all his designs are produced in limited quantities and handmade in London. They’re sure to give many years good knottage.
Now while we’re on the subject of ties, did you know? That in 1880, the rowing club at Oxford Universities Exeter College, invented the first school ties. After an emotional win over their rivals, they celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying them, four in hand around their necks.
When they ordered a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they had accidentally created the modern school tie. Schools, clubs, and athletic ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades, levels of achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians and their method of accurate documentation all the original college colours are still available from archived samples and replicate ties can be made to order.
Now, to a more unlikely candidate: Vivienne Westwood. She has ventured down every avenue from designing evening gowns to crockery for Wedgwood. Three times winner of “fashion designer of the year” and awarded DBE in 2006 for her contribution to the fashion industry. Vivienne’s fashion accessories for men are original without being garish novelties. In August her spring summer collection will be on display. The big surprise is her cufflinks, they’re as refreshing as a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day. Vivienne has garnered much respect over the years.
And as autumn wanes, fashion completes another seasonal cycle. And we wait in great anticipation for new styles freshly watered down from the catwalks. New designers emerge while others fade. And so another turbulent season approaches. Buyers have to keep their wits alert, fashion rises and falls as quickly as the tide. For commercial buyers, developing a theme is as important as selecting the appropriate brand names and styles. The theme, “made in England” it goes against the grain as more and more brands head east to reduce production costs. But as sure as fashion completes another cycle then customers will see the light and demand a return to home grown qualities.
Closing anecdote: 1858: Henry Poole earns the first of his Royal Warrants from the newly crowned Emperor Napoleon III of France to whom Poole and Baron de Rothschild advanced £10,000 to stage a coup in France to establish The Second Empire. At the accession of Emperor Napoleon and his Empress Josephine, Henry Poole erects an audacious gas illuminated eagle-and-coronet light show above the facade of No 36: a tradition he repeats on all great Royal occasions connected to customers of Henry Poole.
About the Author
Purveyor of finely crafted fashion accessories by Vivienne Westwood, including Vivienne’s famous Orb Cufflinks plus historic anecdotes and fashion critiques
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