Hand Carved
Hand Carved
Carved Hiking Sticks - Make Your Own
What do you need to make your own hand carved hiking sticks? A
pocket knife and a walk in the woods. Be sure your knife is
solidly built. You don't need more than a three-inch blade, but
it needs to be strong enough that it won't snap on you when you
hit a knot in the wood. A locking blade is a good idea too, if
you value your fingers.
What type of wood should you use? Any type you want, but be
aware of the differences. Many people like hardwood hiking
sticks because they can be very beautiful once polished up.
That's fine if you don't mind the extra work it takes to carve
hardwoods. Also be aware that they are heavy, better suited for
decorating the cabin than for using on long hikes.
One of my favorite trees for carved hiking sticks is poplar.
It's light, and one of the easiest woods to work with. Young
poplars often grow in over-crowded stands, so cutting a few out
won't hurt the forest. If you cut it in the spring or early
summer, you can almost peel the bark off by hand.
Northern White Cedar is a much tougher wood to carve, but it is
beautiful, straight, and one of the lightest. In a cedar swamp,
you can find many dead young cedars that have not begun to rot.
Cedar lasts forever, it seems, even when used untreated as fence
posts.
Making Your Carved Hiking Stick
What if you don't know your trees? Find a straight young tree in
any area that could use thinning, and cut it. A short saw is the
easiest way to cut your stick. Otherwise, you can use your
knife, by cutting deeper and deeper in a circle around the tree
until you can snap it off. Cut the piece a bit longer than you
want your finished hiking stick to be.
How long should it be? A general rule is to have the hiking
stick come up to just below your armpit. This is a personal
thing though. If you want a fancy seven-foot staff, go for it.
Cut away from yourself, removing all the bark. Narrow down the
bottom end, but not to a sharp point. You can leave the top
flat, round it off, or even carve a spiral design into it. Use
you imagination. Almost any piece of sandpaper can be used to
smooth it, and you can apply stain or a poly acrylic finish if
you want, or just leave it natural.
If you start with green wood, it is best to let it dry for at
least a few weeks. Carving it while green can be easier, but it
will often twist or bend then as it dries. You might prevent
this by tying it to something straight to dry. Each wood is a
little different in how it cuts and drys.
I wrap the bottom end with leather (with a small nail to hold
it) to keep the stick from splitting. I also usually put a
handgrip on it. This can be a piece of cloth or leather. Glue it
on or glue and staple it. You can also drill a hole throught the
stick near the top, to add a wrist strap.
Get creative. Use a wood burner to add designs to your hiking
stick. Drill a hole in the top and glue a glass ball in it. Mark
inches on it, so you can measure with it. Some of my best
sellers had pewter animals nailed to them. Experimenting is one
of the best parts about making your own carved hiking stick.
About the Author
Steve Gillman is a long-time backpacker, and advocate of
lightweight backpacking. He has also made over 200 hiking
sticks. His advice and stories can be found at http://www.TheUltraligh
tBackpackingSite.com
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